

Back cover of Jewish Grandmothers






For some reason you have to go to the bar at Vin Rouge to order takeout pâté, so I sat morosely on a stool surrounded by happy people drinking and noshing on their steak frites (the dentist, again, on my weekend diet, albeit sympathetically: "think of french fries as too crunchy"). It was busy and the wait was long and I kept thinking about the bottle of chilled white wine in the fridge. When I got home, ravenous, I transferred the whole thick slice of chicken-y, pork-y pâté to a favorite plate, along with the Dijon mustard and cornichons that came with it, uncorked the bottle of cirò bianco -- from Calabria, like my paternal grandparents -- poured myself a generous pour, and polished off the whole decadently delicious portion of pâté, nibbling judiciously on the cornichons with the right side of my mouth, hopefully safely removed from the tooth in question -- #15 in the dental lexicon -- the far-back upper molar on the left side of my mouth.
Once the pâté was history, I took the ripe avocado sitting on the counter, mashed it, minced some red onion, and mixed it in with the avocado along with some lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Voilà, guacamole for one, the perfect second course at my pity party. I wolfed that down too, whereupon it was time to sip just a little more cirò, see what Nate is up to, remember that we are going to see our son and daughter-in-law in less than two weeks and that our daughter and son-in-law live just around the corner from us and that we are taking them to Vin Rouge to celebrate his birthday this coming Friday night. I might even share some pâté. Maybe my pity party is not so pitiful after all.
When the University of Virginia is your alma mater, you hear a lot about its founder, Thomas Jefferson. Not just its founder, but its architect, the man who designed the classically beautiful Rotunda and the Lawn, "the Academical Village," that graduates, including me, spend a lifetime reminiscing about, this special place where they spent their college years. Mr. J. also personally designed his famous Charlottesville home, a plantation really, the one on the back of the Jefferson nickel, the "little mountain": Monticello. So unique, such "masterpieces of human creative genius" are the Academical Village and Monticello, that they have been jointly named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Not bad for a self-taught architect.





I have two posts in mind that I hope to commit to writing this weekend, one somewhat reflective in nature, the other more cheering. Let's start with the cheering -- hence food-related -- post.
A few days ago my son Quentin texted me "Is there a way you can send your new york times plum cake recipe? I kind of want it for my b day." My immediate reply: "Nothing would make me happier!"
The plum cake Quentin was referring to is Marian Burros's Plum Torte, a recipe originally published in 1982. It was so popular that in those pre-internet days it was apparently published annually for a number of years. My mother clipped her own copy from the Times in 1984, in an article entitled Purple Plums: From Tree to Torte. (The link does not include the cute graphic in the original article, not to mention that the formatting of the recipe is a mess. The text, however, is charming.) My photocopy of the clipping includes my mother's handwritten notation "TRY -- Looks easy." I can't remember if Mom actually ever made it (she has clipped many a recipe that never made it to table, but come to think of it, so have I), but at some point I initiated myself into the wonder of this simple and delicious torte. I know that my husband has made it a number of times as well.
A variation of Burros's plum torte also appears in Richard Sax's Classic Home Desserts. Sax rechristens it "All-Time Best Summer Fruit Torte" and turns it into a peach or nectarine and blueberry cake, with Burros's 12 purple plums merely listed at the end of the recipe as a variation. Sax does, however, give Burros full credit for the original recipe, noting that it first appeared in her 1960 The Easy But Elegant Cookbook. Sax also suggests the felicitous addition of vanilla, but erroneously lists a tablespoon of baking powder rather than Burros's teaspoon. Trust me on this; it should be a teaspoon.
This might be a good place to summarize my cook's notes:
As to ingredients, it's definitely a teaspoon of baking powder, not a tablespoon, and thumbs up to Sax's teaspoon of vanilla. Use of cinnamon and lemon juice depends on the fruit and your personal taste. As to the pan, either 8 or 9 inches is fine; ten seems big to me. Burros specifies a spring-form pan, which I think best, as you can easily remove the cake, with its lovely pattern of plums on top, to a serving plate, but a regular round cake pan (as Sax uses) also works. But honestly, if you don't have at least one spring-form pan, you really should, as there are many not-especially-pricey models out there. My Kaiser brand pans were bought years ago, were downright inexpensive, not even nonstick, and work fine. Finally, as many reviewers noted, Burros' cooking time of one hour is excessive. Sax says 45 minutes; I'd at least take a look after 30. Here's a picture of Kaiser's "basic" spring-form pan like the ones I own.
I was also delighted to discover in my search that many food-related websites and other bloggers have sung the praises of this plain, buttery, plum-or-fruit-laden treat. A good photo of the finished product is found at Kvell in the Kitchen. Looks like The Kveller didn't use a spring-form, although she does engage in some pretty rhapsodic prose about the torte itself.
And finally, I don't want to be a total purist here; other fruits of course can be substituted as plums are not always easy to find, not to mention seasonal. As one reviewer noted: "Use any kind of nice fruit or berries, just make sure that they are firm,
otherwise they can release too much juice during baking." Almond extract instead of vanilla doesn't sound like a bad idea either, nor does adding a little almond flour, but these are ideas I have not yet tried out. Last but not least: whipped cream is an optional but fine finishing touch.
So happy birthday, dearest Quentin! I only wish I could be there to make and share a plum torte with you and Mary and Dino and Bradley and Dad. Can I at least buy you a gift of a spring-form pan?